Monday, January 23, 2012

Day 43 - Roma, Italy

Breakfast in our apartment as usual and then downstairs for an espresso from the cafe on the corner.

We then made our way across Roma, through Piazza Navona and then over past the Pantheon finally making our way to the Roman Forum and Coliseum.

We used our tickets from yesterday and were able to get straight in bypassing the lineup for ticket purchase. The Coliseum is a hugely impressive example of what the Roman Empire was capable of building. Many parts are crumbling and in a state of semi ruin, but much of it is still in great shape for building that is almost two thousand years old. The history made within the walls of this building is varied, exciting and at times horrific. The structure itself is impressive and was massively advanced by exploiting all sorts of engineering principles.

I can only imaging what it must have looked like at its peak, all lined with marble and packed with Romans. It would likely have been frightening and wild place.

After a few hours inside we made our way back over to explore more of the amazing Roman Forum. This is a huge area where the Roman Rupublic, later to become the Roman Empire built their city. The buildings are now mostly ruin though there are still some standing, impressively decorated, and many are connected by amazing underground tunnels, some of which are accessible to visitors and many others are still being discovered. I'm not sure they really have an idea of the full extent of what still lays hidden underground.

The history that Roma holds is impressive, staggering and the lineage of where I come from originally. This ancient society shaped much of the life that is currently led in the western world.

After spending most of the rest of the day exploring this vast array of ruins and buildings we made our way back into the back streets of Roma, winding our way through lane after lane, one eye on the lookout for some stone sculptures we thought may be in this area. Not finding what we were looking for we made our way back towards the Pantheon and the restaurants and cafes that are all around that area of Roma. We settled on a restaurant, sat inside and ordered some food and drinks.

Sunday, January 22, 2012

Day 42 - Roma, Italy

Breakfast in our apartment and then downstairs for espresso at the cafe on corner. Ww then walked across to look around Piazza Navona during the day time. It's a large long elongated piazza rather than a square or circle like most. It is mostly full of tourists and hawkers selling artwork. The main fountain in the middle is quite impressive and has a large obilisk attached to the top of the statues.

We then headed further across the old town area of Roma to see the Pantheon. This is a stunning round old Roman temple. This building has been in continuous use since it was built and since the 7th century it has been used as a Catholic church/basilica. The marble marble interior is stunning, and the concrete dome is also impressive and almost two thousand years after it was built is still the world's largest unreinforced concrete dome. Even though there were plenty or visitors inside there was still a feeling of tranquility. This building is at the edge of yet another Piazza, Piazza della Rotonda which has the Fontana del Pantheon fountain in the middle. This Piazza has a really welcoming feel to it and seems to draw many people just relaxing or enjoying the many restaurants around it's perimeter up one of the many adjoining lane ways.

After some time in the Pantheon we made our way over to the Old Roman city area of the Roman Forum and Coliseum. There is some stunning archaeological buildings in this massive area of Roma. The Roman empire was certainly an impressive civilisation. These buildings when all erected and at the height of their dominance of over the city must have been stunningly impressive. We spent a few hours wandering around the old forum area exploring the ruins that have so far been excavated. We then made our way over to the Coliseum. This is yet another amazingly impressive building. It is now in a severe state of ruin compared to what it would have been at the height of it's use in Ancient Roman times, yet it is still amazing to stand in front of. Unfortunately, and unbeknown to us, we missed the entry cut off by 3 minutes so we couldn't venture inside to explore. Not a problem as our entry ticket to the old roman forum areas is valid for two days so we can return tomorrow.

We then made our way to Trevi fountain which is yet again stunningly impressive. This is the largest Baroque fountain in the city and one of the most famous fountains in the world, which is certainly confirmed by the hordes of people gathered in front of it. Still well worth the look, yet I am very happy we are not here in Roma during peak summer tourist season.

We continued our walk north and found yet another Italian restaurant for some very late lunch. Great pasta and bruschetta and a huge bottle of Italian mineral water to wash it down.

After the break and some food for sustenance we made our way to the famous Spanish steps. There were plenty of people relaxing on the steps and around the Piazza in front of the steps. Heading further north we made our way up to the Piazza del Popolo which is an enormous Piazza with a large obelisk and fountains in the middle, an arc on the north side and two almost identical churches on the Southern edge. This is another impressive place in Roma and seemed to be full of many locals, especially younger ones meeting up for the night.

We then ventured down Via del Corso which is one of three main roads that stretch out from the Piazza del Popolo. The road was blocked off to traffic and absolutely teeming with people. This seems to the one of the main shopping areas of central Roma as the road was lined with all sorts of brand name clothing stores. It was quite an unexpected vibe though. We're not sure if this is a regular Sunday evening in this part of Roma, after everyone has spent the day at church and with family or whether we stumbled on a once a year or once a month event. It was really a happening place and great to be a part of. Intermingled with the shops every so often was a door into a church. We stuck our heads into many of them as they seemed to have an area in the entry section at the front with a viewing window/chamber. All were amazingly stunning. Amazing roof murals and intricately decorated interiors that leave any church in Australia, even our biggest ones, for dead. We ventured into one just before 6:30pm and were treated to the 6:30 mass commencing. A bell was rung and then a procession of nuns/choir singers emerged from a doorway followed be senior clergy carrying candle sticks with lit candles, and finally the Priest. It was quite an experience. Peaceful, eerie and engaging all at once. I can see how people can get caught up in the Catholic religion. This was more like a performance than any church service I have seen. It made you feel happy and peaceful. Two things that are hard to come by in everyday life.

We then continued our walk down Via del Corso stopping into a few shops for a quick look, before making our way back across towards our apartment. We wound our way through some of the amazing Roma lane ways and after we found a great Gelato store with a massise range of flavours, including about 15 soya ice cream options we found another restaurant for our dinner and some well deserved red wine after a massive day of walking. Again the food was great and cheap.

We made our way back past the Pantheon and hung around in the Piazza enjoying the atmosphere for a while before heading back towards Piazza Navona and back to our apartment around 9pm.

Another fantastic day in Roma.

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Day 41 - Roma, Italy

Our first full day in Roma. As usual it began with breakfast in our apartment.

We then headed out for Vatican City stopping by the cafe on the corner of our street for an espresso. We wandered the lane ways and streets of the old Roma area, where we're staying, making our way across the river to the Vatican.

Our luck was in today. There was no line up at all. We were prepared for a line up of anything up to 3 hours long. We were straight in after a simple security check. We explored the Musei Vaticani which has some amazing art in it's collection. Ancient Roman and ancient Egyptian antiquities, amazing artwork pieces and sculptures and even some Dali and Van Gogh paintings.

We also got to visit the Cappella Sistina (Sistine Chapel) which was smaller than I expected but stunningly decorated with Michelangelo paintings.

Once we had seen most of the Vatican museum, we headed out and back around to Piazza San Pietro (St Peters Square) to see this famous gathering place for Catholics all over the world. It is a very large piazza and must look amazing when it is packed with people. The Basilica Sancti Petri, officially known in Italian as Basilica Papale di San Pietro in Vaticano and commonly known as Saint Peter's Basilica looms over the square and we'll be heading back over here to see inside it on another day.

We then walked back across the river to the area of our apartment, stopping to take a few photos over the river.

We were winding our way through the old cobble stoned lane ways and streets and found a restaurant for some dinner and wine. After dinner we made our way across to Piazza Navona and around some of the streets in this area where we are staying.

Roma is certainly a beautiful and old city. Amazing buildings, fantastic little cobble stoned streets, and more restaurants than you could probably visit in a lifetime of eating out every night.

Friday, January 20, 2012

Day 40 - Venice, Italy to Roma, Italy

Awoke and had breakfast, showered and then headed down to our local cafe for one last Venetian espresso. Still really cold out today (-3 to 0 C). Gloves, hats, thermal wear and jackets required.

Dropped by a shop to buy a couple of gifts and then back to the apartment to get our bags and head over to the train station.

Not the easiest of walks in Venice to get anywhere with loaded bags. Luckily we only had to negotiate our way back over the same three bridges we used to get to the apartment a few days ago. One small one near our apartment, then two bigger ones closer to the station. Bridges with steps just cannot be avoided in Venice. They are everywhere and we have certainly had our fair share of them during our short three day stay here.

Found our platform and loaded our bags up onto the train, found storage for them and sat down in our designated seats. We seemed to be surrounded by Australian families. Seems the company we booked with books everyone onto the same train.

The train was great with some very interesting sights. Plenty of snow, frost and fog for the first hour as we made our way across Italy to the opposite coast. We seemed to also spend quite a bit of time in long tunnels under some mountainous areas.

We arrived in Roma without any issues this time and were greeted at the head of the train by our car service driver which we had booked prior to leaving Sydney. This was a nice change from trying to find a cab or making our own way to our accommodation. The drivers in Roma are pretty insane so I was certainly happy I was not having to drive around the winding streets. It also gave us a chance to take in the views, the ancient buildings, everyday buildings, people and the great little cobble stones streets.

We were greeted at our apartment by the owner and shown around. We settled in briefly and then headed out to a nearby supermarket to grab some supplies for our 5 days here in Roma. It's always a great experience to go to a supermarket in a new city, especially when you don't speak the language. We managed to get most of what we wanted and took it back to our apartment with a quick wander down to Piazza Navonna on the way back. We unpacked the groceries and had a small snack seeing as we hadn't really eaten since breakfast; just a small snack on the train.

Around 6pm we headed back out to find a restaurant for dinner. No issues there as we have about 50 of them within a 5 minute walk of our apartment, including one right outside the front door to our apartment block. We settles on one just down the raod and enjoyed yet again some great Italian food and red wine and even a complimentary glass of Champagne.

We had a walk around after dinner and then headed back to our apartment for showers and bed.

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Day 39 - Venice, Italy

Awoke, showered and then Sharon cooked some breakfast in our apartment. We headed out for espresso at our nearby cafe on the canal and then again walked over towards the Rialto bridge. We stopped into an amazing church (name to to posted later). This is one of the most amazing churches I have ever been in. Stunning detail, stunning marble and amazing artwork. We then headed off again across the Rialto bridge towards San Marco square to explore some more of Venice.

We admired some of the local artisan products, especially the Murano glass. We went to an Italian restaurant we'd found yesterday and settled in for some lunch. Arrabiata, salad, and bruschetta. The food has been great so far.

After lunch we headed over to the Jewish 'Ghetto' island. This is a small island with a square in it, one or two shops and mostly residential apartments. The term ghetto originates from this particular island in Venice.

We then made our way back across Venice to our apartment for a quick stop off and wash, then headed off to buy tickets to a performance by a classical string group (with Harpsichord player) performing in a church. We purchased tickets and had an hour to get some dinner before the performance started.

We found a nearby Italian restaurant for dinner. Great food again. Spaghetti pomodoro with a salad and small half sized bottle of Chianti. Italian is a great option for vegetarians as there is always several options for us to choose from. We finished dinner and made our way back across to the church for the classical musical performance. Fantastic musicians performing Vavaldi and Mozart pieces and it was great to see and hear the performance in a church. A very different atmosphere.

We then made our way back to our apartment to pack ready to leave tomorrow morning for Roma. Venice has been a great city to visit and it's a shame we didn't have longer. A city I will be returning to soon enough.

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Day 38 - Venice, Italy

Awoke around 8:30am, up for breakfast and showers and then headed out for breakfast and coffee at a cafe nearby.

We spent the day wandering around the amazing lane ways and canals that make up Venice. This is such a peaceful, stunning and inspiring city to be in. It is so different to the reality of my everyday life. I loved it.

We bought some fresh vegetables in the food markets near the Rialto bridge then stopped in a nearby restaurant for some Italian pasta for lunch. We then made our way slowly over to San Marco square, stopping in many of the local stores, mostly the ones with local artisan products; amazing glass, pens, paper. It was my first time back in Venice since 1985 and I had some memories of places like San Marco Square and the canals.

We went inside and explored the Basilica di San Marco on the edge of the square and then headed out to the edge of the island where it was now very foggy and freezing cold. You could only just make out the vague shapes of the buildings across the water which are not that far away.

We wandered around the little lanes some more making our way back towards the area of our apartment. We realised we were lost when we passed the same little square with a well in it the second time. Time to consult the map. It is certainly easy to get lost. SOmetimes the signs take you down an alley that is barely wide enough for a person, yet it's the way to some main sight on the island. Getting lost in these lane ways is one of the best parts of being in Venice. An amazing experience for anyone who lives in a normal run of the mill, predictable and monotonous city like I do.

We eventually found our way back to the Rialto bridge and continued winding our way semi lost down lane way after lane way. We stumbled on an Italian restaurant that looked great so we stopped in for dinner and drinks.

Once we had finished dinner we headed back to our apartment which turned out was not far away at all, so we had managed to stumble our way along the lane ways generally in direction we were aiming for.

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Day 37 - Zurich, Switzerland to Venice, Italy

Awoke, showered, dressed and checked out of our hotel and made our way down to the train station for the next leg of our journey. It was not the easiest walk even though only about 15 minutes long, it was around -5 C so our hands, even in gloves, were being exposed to the cold whilst we where wheeling our bags.

We made it the station without incident and were happy to be able to warm our hands up in our pockets.

Checked tickets at the ticket window and then found a small kiosk to buy some pastries for breakfast. For some reason they wouldn't let Sharon buy what we wanted with the coins we had even though we had more than we had calculated the total should be. They turned her away with the change minus the two extra croissants we wanted for the train journey. Oddly the change was over €3.00 and the cost of one croissant was only €1.30. So I went back to the counter with the same coins they had handed back to Sharon stating that it wasn't enough to buy the croissants and yet I was able to purchase the two croissants and even be given change. The interesting experiences that can occur when there are language barriers.

We waited for our trains platform to be posted on the board and when it was we made our way to the platform and boarded the train, found seats and were moving away soon after. There was some great scenery, including quite a lot of snow. The journey was about 4.5 hours to Milan where we had to change trains to go on to Venice.

Our first train was 15 minutes late arriving into Milan which meant our connecting train was about to leave as our agency had booked trains only 15 minutes apart. We dashed from train one with our bags and checked the board for the platform of our next train. Luckily it was only 3 platforms away. We raced over to the next train and just as we started down the platform it started pulling away. There were several other people who had the same problem.

We made our way to the customer service information office and received an authorisation stamp that allowed us to get on the next train to Venice. We just had to wait for another hour. When it arrived we had to see the customer service attendants 'colleague' and they would sort out seats for us. This was all quite vague. We saw another little booth at the end where all platforms join the station so went up to ask who one of the colleagues may be and where we would find them. To my surprise the guy that served me at this little booth was the same guy who had given us the authorisation stamp in the main customer service office on the other side of the station. After another 2 or 3 minute conversation I was finally able to work out where this 'colleague' would be once our train arrived.

We waited in the main station area for the next 45 minutes until our new train arrived. We found the platform, spoke to the 'colleague' and were told to get on and find any empty seats and that the conductor would sort it out for us once he came around. As we didn't actually have booked seats for this train we had to move when someone got on who had the seat booked that we had been sitting in. We found two more empty seats and luckily they were not taken and the train headed off from the platform.

The conductor eventually came around and after checking advised we could stay in the seats we were in. Finally we were on our way to Venice, an hour later than planned.

After around 3 hours we arrived into Venice into the dark with a serious fog hanging over the city. It was quite eerie and really suited the vibe of a city that is made up of small lane ways and canals and has no cars on it. The walk to the apartment was a little gruelling lugging our bags up and down three different bridges all with plenty of steps both up and down. Not fun, and I suggest packing light if you come to Venice.

Still it was beautiful to hear the canals and the footsteps around and no traffic noise, just a few little boats and canal taxis passing from time to time.

We finally got to our apartment and were let in by the owner Sebastiano who was extremely helpful in explaining the apartment and more so how to get the most out of our time in Venice. He had little tips on good areas for restaurants, other insights into some interesting parts of the island and even had guide books and maps all there for us to use. The apartment was fantastic, the best one we have had on this trip. Amazing views right over the canals and a very modern and well equipped apartment inside, with great classic Venice character from the outside. We could not have picked a better apartment or person to deal with.

As it was now after 8pm settled in briefly and then headed out for a walk and to find a restaurant for dinner. It was freezing cold outside around -2 and the fog making feel much colder. Even with gloves, hats, jackets and thermals the cold was biting through to our skin. FIngers and feet were numb within 5 minutes outside. We found a little Italian restaurant not far away and quickly headed inside, where it was actually only slightly warmer. It seems Venice restaurants and shops don't overheat like they do elsewhere. THis could be due to the fact that households and businesses have limits on how much power they can draw at any one time. The owner of apartment had warned us of this and that you can only run one appliance at a time or the power regulator switches cuts in and shuts power off.

We enjoyed our pasta dinner with some great Italian red wine and then made our way back to our apartment around 10:30 for showers, some unpacking and then off to bed.